Five Tarp Configurations Worth Memorising

The same tarp pitched five different ways solves five different problems - wind, rain angle, group size and how much floor space you need. Learning the shapes rather than one fixed pitch means you can adapt to the site in front of you instead of the site you planned for.

1. 01

   Pitch the A-frame for straightforward rain cover. Run a ridgeline between two anchors, drape the tarp over it, and peg out both sides low to the ground - simple, stable, and the best default when wind isn't a major factor.

2. 02

   Pitch the lean-to when you need an open, heat-reflecting face. Peg one edge to the ground and raise the opposite edge on poles or a line, leaving one whole side open toward a fire - good for warmth and visibility but exposed to wind from the open side.

3. 03

   Pitch the storm wedge low and tight in high wind. Drop the ridgeline height right down and peg all edges close to the ground so the tarp presents the smallest possible profile - it sacrifices headroom for stability.

4. 04

   Pitch the diamond fly when you want maximum covered floor space from a minimal frame. Rig the tarp corner-to-corner off a single central point or two opposing corners, letting the diamond shape shed rain off all four sides at once.

5. 05

   Pitch the plow point for a tight one-person shelter in wind and rain together. Peg one corner to the ground as the point, raise the opposite edge on a single pole, and stake the two side corners low - it's directional, so face the point into the weather.

Use the A-frame or lean-to when wind is genuinely mild and you want speed. Switch to the storm wedge the moment wind becomes the dominant problem rather than rain - a taller pitch in high wind will flap, strain your guy lines and can fail overnight. The diamond fly earns its keep when you're sheltering a group or want gear cover as well as sleeping space. The plow point is the one worth knowing for solo travel through mixed wind-and-rain weather, since it's compact and directional.

Condensation builds up under any tarp when warm, moist air from breathing or cooking meets the cooler tarp fabric with nowhere to go. Pitching with a gap between the tarp edge and the ground - rather than sealing it flush - lets air move through and carries moisture out before it settles. Avoid cooking directly under a low pitch for the same reason; the extra moisture and heat make condensation worse fast.

Pitching without checking which way the wind and rain are actually coming from is the most frequent error - a beautifully taut A-frame pitched side-on to driving rain will still get you wet. Under-tensioning the ridgeline leaves the whole structure prone to sagging and pooling water. Choosing the diamond fly or lean-to in strong wind because they look roomier, when the storm wedge would actually hold, is a close second.

None of these configurations insulate you from the ground or trap heat the way an enclosed shelter does - pair a tarp pitch with a proper sleeping mat, or consider an emergency debris hut for extra insulation if temperatures are genuinely cold and you have time to build one. A tarp also won't stand up indefinitely to sustained gale-force wind regardless of configuration; know when to relocate rather than fight the pitch.

• Met Office, weather warnings and advice: https://www.metoffice.gov.uk/weather/warnings-and-advice
• ready.gov, general preparedness: https://www.ready.gov/